High on the Hog…
In 2021, Netflix aired a series called High on the Hog, How African American Cuisine Transformed America. The series is based on the 2011 book by historian and cookbook author Jessica B. Harris, “High on the Hog: A Culinary Journey from Africa to America”. Allow me to explain how the show led me to Monticello!
The 4 episode docuseries covers the roots of African American foods in Benin Africa, to the rice kingdoms of the Carolinas, then introduces us to the Founding Father’s enslaved Chefs (James Hemings & Hercules Posey), and finally ends with a Juneteenth feast in Texas. Netflix’s High on the Hog is led by author and chef, Stephen Satterfield. The show does a phenomenal job of shedding light on the history and celebration of African American food. Episode 3, Our Founding Chefs resonated and spoke to me deeply.
Our Founding Chefs
In the 3rd episode of High on the Hog, viewers are introduced to James Hemings and Hercules Posey. Hemings was the enslaved chef for Thomas Jefferson and Hercules, was the enslaved chef for George Washington. As this blog post is about my time at Monticello, we’ll focus on Hemings.
James Hemings came to Monticello at 9 years old with his family, which included his younger sister, Sally Hemings (who would later bear at least 6 of Jefferson’s children). James Hemings was the half-brother of Thomas Jefferson’s wife, Martha Jefferson; James Hemings and Martha Jefferson shared the same father.
At 19 years old, as the enslaved property of Jefferson, James Hemings traveled to France to begin an apprenticeship under French chefs. In France, Hemings learned classical French cooking techniques that he would later bring back to Monticello. Many of the dishes that Hemings mastered are current American favorites like French Fries, Ice Cream, and Mac & Cheese! We can credit enslaved Chef, James Hemings with popularizing these dishes at Monticello.
After many years of cooking for Jefferson, Hemings wants his freedom but is told by Jefferson he can only be free after he finds and trains a replacement chef. That replacement would be Hemings younger brother Peter. Imagine that proposition, your freedom in exchange for your brothers; truly heartbreaking. Hemings does indeed teach his brother to cook all of Jefferson’s favorites and earns his freedom. History can trace Hemings to Philadelphia and then Baltimore. We know that Hemings dies in Baltimore in 1801 but not much else is known about his life as a free man.
Thank you, James Hemings
As a restaurant owner, married to a black chef, I was deeply intrigued by the history of James Hemings (Hercules Posey as well) and how their recipes changed the face of American cuisine. They were the first celebrity chefs and up until High on the Hog, I had never heard of these men! I was eager to learn more. Hats off to High on the Hog for introducing me to the legacy of Hemings and Hercules.
An Opportunity Presents Itself…
Netflix’s High on the Hog aired in May of 2021. In August of 2021, my youngest daughter was narrowing down her college choices and doing college tours. UVA (founded by Thomas Jefferson), located in Charlottesville, Virginia was on her shortlist. College tours were being limited to half days during COVID times so, my family and I decided to book a tour of Monticello to make the most of our time in Charlottesville. It was an exciting prospect for me, an American history buff, and for my husband, who watched and loved the segments featuring Monticello Netflix! We both loved the idea of touring the kitchen at Monticello, to see firsthand where enslaved Chef Hemings perfected his dishes.
Arriving at Monticello
The first stop at Monticello is the visitor center. Inside the visitor center, you’ll view personal items of Jefferson and have the opportunity to watch a short film on the history of Monticello. To Monticello’s credit, they did not try and downplay the slavery aspect of Thomas Jefferson’s legacy. The welcome film discussed the history of slavery at Monticello just as much as it discussed Jefferson’s legacy as a Founding Father of America. The welcome center also features a small cafe and a gift shop. For a souvenir, I purchased a cookbook featuring the recipes of James Hemings!
After spending some time at the welcome center and gift shop, our shuttle bus arrived to take us up to Monticello. It was a short but scenic drive, and the atmosphere on the bus was somber. My family and I were trying to process how someone could achieve all that Jefferson did while enslaving masses of people. It’s difficult to understand, add to that we knew a tour of the Monticello slave quarters was on the way.
Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello
The tour at Monticello was very intimate. Though there were lots of folks around, the tours are guided, limited to 45 minutes, and broken into small groups (about 12 folks). We were led from room to room, through Monticello, and we viewed Jefferson’s study, parlor, dining room, bedroom, and other areas. It was amazing to see the actual desk where he pinned the Declaration of Independence. It was equally amazing to see Jefferson’s parlor lined with the original 18th mirrors that hung in his day. Just imagine the stories these walls could tell!
One story our tour guide shared with us was how Marquis de Lafayette asked Jefferson how he could fight for liberty, equality, democracy, and freedom and still enslave hundreds of people. According to our tour guide, Jefferson responded “Their (slaves) time for freedom had not yet come.” Talk about outrage and heartbreak! I was speechless and I could only imagine MY ancestors toiling away under a man like Thomas Jefferson, in the very room I was standing in. Here is a clip of the story.
The guided tour ended with the entire group standing outside of Monticello, in the spot where many of Jefferson’s slaves were sold. Jefferson died deep in debt and his slaves were sold off to pay his debts. Try to picture families being torn apart and destroyed as mothers and fathers, sons and daughters were sold away, never to see each other again. Chilling, and it left MY family speechless. How do you reconcile such beautiful scenery with such monstrous actions? It’s been two years since our trip to Monticello and I still can’t answer that question.
Monticello, On Our Own
Once the 45-minute guided tour of Monticello ended, we were on our own to explore the grounds freely. Our first stop was the kitchen! It was incredible to stand in the kitchen James Hemings worked in hundreds of years ago. The actual stove and hearth are still standing and honestly, it felt like we were standing on sacred ground. The kitchen was just as we saw on Netflix’s High on the Hog! What a wonderful experience, it was the highlight of the tour for us and it really helped lighten our moods!
Sadly, the lighter mood was very short-lived. Immediately after leaving the kitchen, we were faced with touring the slave cabins. These cabins are not models or re-creations. These are the actual slave cabins from the 18th century. Stepping inside the tiny little cabin that a FAMILY would have shared sickened me. ESPECIALLY after having just viewed the opulence and splendor of Monticello. I was struggling to process the paradox of Thomas Jefferson, pursuer of liberty AND slave owner.
After such an emotional rollercoaster, my family and I were ready to bid Monticello farewell. We took a final view of the gardens with the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains framing the background. All I could do was breathe in the mountain air and say a prayer for my ancestors who toiled for generations at Monticello.
Farewell, Monticello
As emotional as our time at Monticello was, I would recommend a visit there to EVERYONE. Regardless of your race, it is a location every American should try to visit. You’ll need to prepare yourself to face the two sides of Thomas Jefferson. Founding Father, inventor, “foodie”, and also a slave master to over 600 people. Make that make sense. It was a tough tour (emotionally) but I walked away grateful and inspired. Grateful for MY freedom and inspired by the opportunities I have that the folks buried on the ground I toured didn’t have.
I would love to hear from any of you that have toured Monticello and its grounds. How did the experience leave you feeling? Head over to the contact page to leave your comments!
Other Posts You Might Enjoy:
